Bickleigh and the Exe Valley: A Heritage Guide

The picturesque village of Bickleigh sits in one of Devon’s most enchanting river valleys, where centuries of history have shaped a landscape of remarkable beauty and cultural significance. Nestled beside The Fisherman’s Cot, this ancient settlement offers visitors a journey through time, from Saxon origins to Civil War battlegrounds, all set against the backdrop of the meandering River Exe.

A Village Steeped in History

Bickleigh’s origins stretch back over a millennium, first recorded as “Bicanleag” in a charter issued during the reign of King Edward the Elder in 904 AD. The name, meaning “Bicca’s meadow,” reflects the area’s agricultural heritage and connection to the fertile lands of the Exe Valley. By the time of the Domesday Book in 1086, the settlement was firmly established as “Bichelei,” marking its importance in medieval Devon.

The village’s strategic position on the River Exe made it a natural crossing point for travellers journeying between Exeter and the northern territories. This geographical advantage would shape Bickleigh’s development for centuries to come, attracting merchants, nobles, and eventually, the attention of kings and queens during some of England’s most turbulent periods.

The Historic Bridge and River Crossing

The centrepiece of Bickleigh is undoubtedly its Grade II listed stone bridge, constructed in the early 17th century to replace earlier crossings that had served travellers for hundreds of years. This elegant five-arch structure carries the A396 across the River Exe and has become synonymous with the village’s identity, offering stunning views upstream and downstream.

The bridge holds a special place in modern cultural folklore, having been mistakenly linked to Paul Simon’s famous song “Bridge Over Troubled Water.” In the 1960s, the singer-songwriter stayed at The Fisherman’s Cot during a period of flooding, when the River Exe had burst its banks. For decades, locals believed this experience had inspired the iconic song, though Art Garfunkel later clarified in 2003 that the phrase actually came from a Baptist hymn. Nonetheless, the romantic notion persists, adding another layer to the bridge’s mystique.

Bickleigh Castle: A Fortified Manor with Royal Connections

Dominating the eastern bank of the River Exe stands Bickleigh Castle, though the name is somewhat misleading—it’s actually a fortified manor house with parts dating to the 11th century, though most of the structure is 15th century. This remarkable building has witnessed some of the most dramatic events in English history and hosted some of the most notable figures of their times.

The castle’s guest list reads like a who’s who of medieval and Tudor nobility. Lady Margaret de Bohun, granddaughter of King Edward I, once called it home, as did Lady Margaret Beaufort, King Henry VII’s great-aunt and one of the most powerful women of her era. Princess Katherine Plantagenet, daughter of King Edward IV and aunt to Henry VIII, also graced its halls.

Perhaps most dramatically, Queen Henrietta Maria, wife of King Charles I, sought refuge at Bickleigh Castle during the English Civil War. Her stay proved brief but significant—upon receiving word that General Fairfax’s Parliamentary forces were approaching, she fled to France, marking the beginning of the end for the Royalist stronghold. The subsequent siege and partial demolition of the castle by Parliamentary troops in the 1640s left scars that can still be seen today, and some believe gave rise to the ghostly rider who haunts the nearby bridge.

The Civil War Legacy

The English Civil War left an indelible mark on Bickleigh, transforming it from a peaceful river crossing into a strategic battleground. The Carew family, who held the manor from medieval times until 1922, were staunch Royalists, making their fortified home a natural target for Parliamentary forces.

The siege of Bickleigh Castle represents a microcosm of the broader conflict that tore England apart in the 1640s. When Parliamentary troops finally captured the stronghold, they followed the common practice of “slighting”—deliberately damaging fortifications to prevent their future military use. Much of the castle’s defensive capability was destroyed, though enough remained to preserve its architectural significance for future generations.

St Mary’s Church and Medieval Heritage

The parish church of St Mary, built predominantly in the 14th century, stands as a testament to Bickleigh’s medieval prosperity. The church contains features from various periods, reflecting the community’s continuous development over the centuries. Its Norman font and medieval carved features provide insight into the religious and social life of the village’s inhabitants through the ages.

The churchyard itself holds centuries of local history, with graves telling the stories of generations of families who lived and worked in the Exe Valley. For visitors interested in genealogy or local history, the church records provide a fascinating glimpse into the lives of ordinary people who called this extraordinary place home.

Bickleigh Mill and Traditional Crafts

One of Devon’s largest rural shopping and recreation destinations, Bickleigh Mill occupies an 18th-century working water mill site that demonstrates the area’s industrial heritage. The mill complex showcases traditional crafts and local produce, offering visitors a chance to experience the working history of the Exe Valley.

The mill represents the practical side of Bickleigh’s heritage—while the castle and church spoke to power and faith, the mill ground the corn that fed the local population. Today, visitors can observe traditional milling techniques and purchase locally-made goods, connecting modern tourism with ancient traditions.

The Grand Western Canal Connection

The Grand Western Canal Country Park, just a short distance from Bickleigh, represents one of Devon’s most successful conservation stories. This 19th-century waterway, originally designed to link the Bristol and English channels, now meanders through beautiful Mid Devon countryside as a haven for wildlife and walkers.

The canal’s proximity to Bickleigh makes it an ideal complement to a village visit. Horse-drawn barge trips operate during the warmer months, offering a gentle way to experience the peaceful waterway. The towpath provides excellent walking opportunities, with well-maintained trails suitable for visitors of all ages and abilities.

Devon Railway Centre and Transport Heritage

Located at the former Cadeleigh railway station on the closed Exe Valley Railway, the Devon Railway Centre preserves another aspect of the area’s transport history. This heritage railway offers visitors a chance to experience steam-age travel through the beautiful Devon countryside, with restored locomotives and period carriages providing an authentic journey back in time.

The railway connection reinforces Bickleigh’s historical role as a transport hub, continuing a tradition that began with the ancient river crossing and continued through the coaching inn era into the railway age.

Walking and Outdoor Pursuits

The Exe Valley Way provides excellent walking opportunities for visitors staying in Bickleigh. Stage 5 of this long-distance footpath runs from Bickleigh to Tiverton, closely following the east bank of the River Exe through rich oak woodlands and open meadows. The path offers constantly changing views of the river and surrounding countryside, with opportunities to spot wildlife including otters, kingfishers, and a variety of waterbirds.

For those seeking shorter walks, the village itself provides numerous options. The network of footpaths around Bickleigh Castle and along the riverbank offers gentle strolls with historical interest, while more adventurous walkers can explore the higher ground of the Exe Valley for panoramic views across Mid Devon.

Folklore and Mystery

Beyond its documented history, Bickleigh retains a rich tradition of folklore and mystery that adds depth to any visit. The legend of the headless horseman who rides across the bridge at midnight connects the village to broader traditions of Civil War ghosts that can be found throughout England. Local tales speak of spectral soldiers, mysterious lights, and unexplained sounds that echo across the water on still nights.

The proximity of The Fisherman’s Cot to these legendary occurrences makes it an ideal base for those interested in the area’s supernatural heritage. Whether one believes in such things or not, the stories add atmosphere to evening walks and provide fascinating insights into how communities preserve and interpret their turbulent past.

Planning Your Visit

Bickleigh’s compact size makes it perfect for exploration on foot, with most attractions within easy walking distance of The Fisherman’s Cot. The village serves as an excellent base for exploring the wider Exe Valley, with good road connections to Exeter, Tiverton, and other Devon attractions.

The combination of historical significance, natural beauty, and legendary intrigue makes Bickleigh a rewarding destination for visitors interested in experiencing authentic Devon heritage. From the moment you cross the ancient bridge to your evening at The Fisherman’s Cot, every step reveals new layers of this remarkable village’s long and fascinating story.