The North Gate - Exeter’s Historic Gateway and Coaching Heritage

Standing at The City Gate Hotel on Iron Bridge, visitors occupy one of Exeter’s most historically significant locations - the site of the ancient North Gate, which for centuries served as the primary entrance to the city for travellers arriving from North Devon and beyond. This area represents not just a geographical gateway but a cultural and commercial crossroads where countless human stories have unfolded, creating a rich tapestry of heritage that extends far beyond the hotel’s haunted reputation.

The Medieval North Gate - Exeter’s Northern Sentinel

The original North Gate formed part of Exeter’s medieval defensive system, one of four main gates that controlled access to the ancient city. Built upon Roman foundations that date back to the original fortress of Isca Dumnoniorum, the North Gate served as both a military checkpoint and a customs point where merchants paid tolls to enter the city with their goods. The strategic importance of this location cannot be overstated - it commanded the approach from North Devon, controlling trade routes that brought wool, cattle, and other agricultural products from the countryside into Exeter’s bustling markets.

Archaeological evidence suggests that the North Gate area has been continuously occupied since Roman times, with each successive civilisation building upon the foundations of their predecessors. The medieval gate itself was a substantial stone structure, complete with towers, guardrooms, and living quarters for the gate-keepers who maintained round-the-clock vigilance over the city’s northern approach. These gatekeepers held positions of considerable responsibility, as they were often the first city officials that visitors encountered, responsible for collecting tolls, checking credentials, and determining who could enter the protected city.

The gatehouse served multiple functions beyond mere defence. It contained chambers that served as temporary accommodation for important visitors awaiting formal entry to the city, administrative offices where customs duties were calculated and collected, and holding cells for those denied entry or suspected of criminal activity. The concentration of human drama, commercial negotiation, and administrative activity created an environment rich in historical significance that continues to influence the area’s character today.

The Coaching Era - Birth of the Crown and Sceptre

The dissolution of medieval defensive systems in the early modern period transformed the North Gate area from a military checkpoint into a commercial hub. By 1770, the medieval gate structure had been demolished, and in its place arose the Crown and Sceptre Inn, the predecessor to today’s City Gate Hotel. This transformation reflects broader changes in English society, as the need for defensive fortifications gave way to the demands of increasing trade and travel.

The Crown and Sceptre Inn was specifically designed to serve the coaching trade that had become the lifeblood of 18th-century transportation. Coaches travelling from Barnstaple, Bideford, and other North Devon towns would arrive in Exeter after journeys of many hours over rough roads, with passengers eager for refreshment, accommodation, and the opportunity to rest before continuing their travels. The inn’s location just outside the former city walls made it the perfect stopping point where coaches could unload passengers and cargo before attempting the steep ascent of North Street into the city centre.

The coaching trade brought a cosmopolitan atmosphere to the North Gate area, as travellers from diverse backgrounds converged on the inn. Merchants conducting business between London and the West Country, farmers bringing goods to market, officials on government business, and ordinary citizens travelling for family or commercial reasons all passed through the Crown and Sceptre’s doors. This constant flow of humanity created a vibrant social environment where news, gossip, and commercial information were exchanged alongside food, drink, and accommodation.

The inn’s ostler, Johnny Doe, became a local character whose responsibilities extended far beyond caring for horses. Ostlers in coaching inns were crucial figures who managed the complex logistics of horse changes, coach maintenance, and passenger services that kept the transportation system functioning. Johnny Doe’s saying, “one of Johnny Doe’s days – better day than it turned out,” entered local folklore and reflects the unpredictable nature of coaching travel, where weather, road conditions, and mechanical failures could turn any journey into an adventure.

The Iron Bridge Development - Victorian Urban Planning

The construction of Iron Bridge in the 1830s represented a significant advance in urban planning and engineering that transformed the North Gate area once again. The new roadway created a more direct and less steep route into the city centre, reducing the notorious difficulties that coaches faced when climbing North Street. This improvement made Exeter more accessible to wheeled traffic and contributed to the city’s growing prosperity during the Victorian period.

The rebuilding of the Crown and Sceptre Inn in 1834 to align with the new Iron Bridge roadway demonstrates the adaptability that has characterised this location throughout its history. The Victorian rebuilding incorporated the latest architectural and engineering techniques while maintaining the essential function of serving travellers entering the city from the north. The new building’s Georgian proportions and classical details reflected the refined taste of the Victorian era while providing improved accommodation and facilities for guests.

The Iron Bridge development also influenced the broader urban landscape of the North Gate area. New commercial buildings arose to serve the increased traffic, while residential development spread northward beyond the former city boundaries. This expansion created the modern street pattern that visitors encounter today, where historical layers are visible in the mixture of Georgian, Victorian, and modern architecture that characterises the neighbourhood.

Railway Age Transformation - The End of Coaching

The arrival of the railway in Exeter during the 1840s fundamentally altered the transportation landscape that had sustained the coaching trade for centuries. The new Central Station, located just minutes from the City Gate Hotel, provided faster, more reliable, and more comfortable transportation than horse-drawn coaches could offer. This technological revolution forced coaching inns throughout England to adapt or close, as their traditional role in long-distance transportation became obsolete almost overnight.

The Crown and Sceptre Inn’s response to this challenge demonstrates the resilience and adaptability that have characterised the North Gate area throughout its history. Rather than simply declining with the coaching trade, the inn reinvented itself as a local pub and hotel serving railway passengers, city residents, and the growing number of tourists who were beginning to discover Devon’s attractions. This transformation required significant changes in both the building’s facilities and its operational approach, as the inn shifted from serving travellers on multi-day journeys to providing services for day visitors and local patrons.

The proximity to the new railway station proved advantageous, as guests could easily walk between the station and the hotel while remaining close to the city centre’s attractions. This convenience factor helped establish the pattern of use that continues today, where the hotel serves visitors who want accommodation that combines historical character with practical accessibility.

Industrial Heritage and Urban Development

The North Gate area’s industrial heritage extends beyond transportation to include various manufacturing and commercial activities that took advantage of the location’s accessibility and proximity to both the city centre and the countryside. The tragic brewing accident of 1848, when brewer Shadrack Kemp fell into a boiling vat at the Crown and Sceptre, illustrates the dangerous nature of 19th-century industrial processes, even in relatively small-scale operations like inn brewing.

Brewing was a crucial activity for coaching inns, as the quality and safety of beer often exceeded that of available water, making it the preferred beverage for travellers. The brewing facilities at the Crown and Sceptre would have been substantial operations requiring significant technical expertise and presenting genuine safety hazards. The accident that claimed Shadrach Kemp’s life reflects the industrial risks that were commonplace in an era before modern safety regulations and equipment.

The World War II period brought different challenges to the North Gate area, as wartime restrictions and rationing affected all aspects of daily life. The incident involving a fish lorry that dropped its cargo, leading to local housewives quickly collecting the fallen cod, illustrates the resourcefulness and community spirit that characterised civilian life during the war. Such events, while seeming minor in the context of global conflict, represented significant opportunities for families struggling with wartime food shortages.

Modern Heritage and Preservation

The closure of the Crown and Sceptre Inn in 1991 and its subsequent reopening in 1997 reflects broader trends in British hospitality and heritage preservation. The devastating fire of 1999 could have ended the building’s long history, but the decision to invest £1.3 million in renovations demonstrates the community’s commitment to preserving this important piece of Exeter’s heritage.

The transformation into the modern City Gate Hotel represents a successful balance between historical preservation and contemporary hospitality. The renovations carefully maintained the building’s Georgian character while incorporating modern amenities and safety systems. This approach ensures that future generations can continue to experience the atmosphere and history of this significant location while enjoying contemporary comfort and convenience.

Today’s City Gate Hotel continues the tradition of hospitality that has characterised this location for over two and a half centuries. The building’s evolution from medieval gatehouse to coaching inn to modern boutique hotel demonstrates the continuing vitality of Exeter’s North Gate area and its ability to adapt to changing times while maintaining its essential character as a gateway to the ancient city.

Visitors staying at the City Gate Hotel occupy a unique position in Exeter’s urban landscape, where they can walk in the footsteps of Roman soldiers, medieval merchants, Georgian travellers, and Victorian entrepreneurs, all while enjoying the comforts of 21st-century hospitality in a building that embodies centuries of English heritage and hospitality tradition.