The Oxenham Arms: A Journey Through Millennia in South Zeal

The Oxenham Arms stands as one of England’s most historically significant buildings, embodying an extraordinary narrative that spans five millennia of continuous human occupation and spiritual significance. From its origins as a prehistoric sacred site to its current status as Devon’s oldest heritage inn, this remarkable establishment has witnessed and participated in virtually every major period of English history.

The Neolithic Foundation: 5,000 Years of Sacred Space

The story begins around 3000 BC with the carving of the South Zeal Menhir Standing Stone, a massive 27-foot-tall granite monument weighing approximately 17 tons. This extraordinary feat of Neolithic engineering required sophisticated planning and community cooperation, as the granite was quarried from high on Dartmoor and transported to its current location using wooden rollers and enormous human effort.

The menhir served as a sacred focal point for Neolithic peoples, functioning as their equivalent of modern churches or cathedrals. Archaeological evidence suggests that standing stones of this magnitude marked locations of special spiritual significance, often connected to astronomical alignments, seasonal celebrations, or territorial boundaries. The fact that this monument predates Stonehenge by 1,000 years demonstrates the sophisticated spiritual culture that flourished on Dartmoor during Britain’s prehistoric period.

Excavations in the 1930s revealed that the stone extends at least 14 feet below ground level, with its total buried depth potentially reaching 26 feet. This massive foundation indicates the monument’s intended permanence and the reverence accorded to this sacred site by its creators. The stone’s incorporation into successive buildings demonstrates humanity’s continuing recognition of its spiritual power across 50 centuries of occupation.

Medieval Transformation: Christianity Embraces Ancient Spirituality

The transition from pagan to Christian use reflects broader patterns in English religious history. According to established tradition, Benedictine monks arrived in the 12th century to construct a substantial monastery around the ancient stone. While recent historical scholarship questions the documentary evidence for this monastic period, the building’s extraordinary incorporation of the prehistoric monument into its Christian architecture suggests deep spiritual wisdom.

The claimed monastery was described as a substantial nine-roomed, two-storey structure built from local granite and oak. This construction would have required significant resources and skilled craftsmen, indicating the importance accorded to the site by medieval religious authorities. The decision to build around rather than remove the ancient stone demonstrates remarkable theological sophistication, recognizing that sacred spaces transcend individual religious traditions.

Three of the current hotel rooms - The Belstone Room, The Bovey Room, and The Widecombe Room - are believed to occupy the exact locations of original monks’ cells. The monastery’s layout would have followed traditional Benedictine patterns, with communal areas for prayer, study, and meals arranged around central courtyards. The preservation of these architectural elements creates an extraordinary continuity between medieval religious life and modern hospitality.

The monastery period, whether historically documented or legendary, established patterns of hospitality and spiritual welcome that continue to define The Oxenham Arms’ character. The Benedictine tradition of offering shelter to travelers created precedents for the building’s later transformation into a licensed inn.

The Burgoyne Legacy: Medieval Manor House Grandeur

By the early 14th century, the property had passed to the Burgoyne family, wealthy French merchants who had arrived in Britain during the Norman Conquest. The Burgoynes were involved in trade and shipping in the Plymouth area, accumulating substantial wealth that they invested in creating a grand family seat. Though lacking noble titles, they possessed the resources and ambition to establish themselves among Devon’s landed gentry.

The Burgoynes’ architectural contribution to The Oxenham Arms cannot be overstated. They constructed the magnificent cut-block granite frontage that English Heritage describes as ‘the most beautiful facade of any building of its period in Devon.’ This stunning addition, built around 1350, transformed the building from a purely functional structure into an architectural masterpiece befitting an ambitious merchant family.

The granite letter ‘B’ carved above the coach house doors still commemorates the Burgoyne family’s ownership, providing a permanent reminder of their contribution to the building’s development. The rooms now known as The Chagford Room, The Lydford Room, The Lustleigh Room, and The Manaton Room occupy the manor house section they created, maintaining the grandeur they intended to project.

For nearly 100 years, The Burgoyne Manor served as a symbol of the family’s success and social aspirations. The building’s position on the important road between Exeter and Okehampton made it both a practical family residence and a statement of the Burgoynes’ importance in Devon society.

The Oxenham Era: From Manor to Maritime Legend

The documented Oxenham family period begins in 1451 when Earls William and John Oxenham purchased the entire estate, comprising approximately 1,000 acres. This acquisition marked the beginning of the building’s most historically significant phase, connecting a remote Dartmoor location to global maritime adventure and Elizabethan expansion.

The Oxenham brothers were titled nobility with extensive holdings in both North Devon and Plymouth. Their central location at South Zeal provided convenient access to their diverse interests while establishing them as major landowners in the region. William Oxenham’s later departure left his brother John to manage the estate with his wife Elizabeth and their children, including a son who would achieve global fame.

The birth of Captain John Oxenham in 1530 connects The Oxenham Arms directly to the golden age of English maritime exploration. This remarkable individual would become Sir Francis Drake’s companion and navigator, participating in 88 missions that challenged Spanish dominance in the New World. His achievement as the first English sea captain to sail the Pacific Ocean represents one of the most significant maritime accomplishments of the Elizabethan era.

The family’s decision in 1476-1477 to lease out the manor and obtain an inn licence from Exeter Justice Offices created one of England’s oldest continuously operating hospitality establishments. This transformation from private manor to public inn reflects the changing economic and social conditions of late medieval England, where established families diversified their income sources while maintaining their social positions.

The Coaching Inn Era: 500 Years of Continuous Hospitality

The inn’s licence, granted in 1477, established The Oxenham Arms as a crucial waystation on the route between Exeter and Okehampton. This positioning on the northeastern edge of Dartmoor made it an essential stopping point for travelers crossing the moor or conducting business between Devon’s market towns. The inn’s strategic location ensured steady custom while providing a vital service to the regional economy.

The building’s multiple functions during this period - family residence, coaching inn, and community center - reflect the complex social structures of early modern England. The inn served not only travelers but also local residents who gathered for social events, business meetings, and community celebrations. The adjoining field hosted the South Tawton Fair, featuring wrestling matches, horse and pony races, and athletic competitions that drew visitors from across the region.

The inn’s role as a social hub extended to hosting meetings of the South Tawton Friendly Society, the South Tawton and South Zeal Agricultural Society, and various fox and harrier packs for their pre-hunt gatherings. These activities demonstrate how The Oxenham Arms functioned as the social and economic center of South Zeal community life.

The building’s architectural evolution during this period adapted medieval structures to changing hospitality needs. The addition of stabling, cellars, brewhouses, and guest accommodations created the complex layout that modern visitors experience today. The preservation of original medieval elements within functional inn architecture creates the unique character that distinguishes The Oxenham Arms from typical coaching inns.

Literary Connections and Cultural Significance

The Oxenham Arms has attracted literary attention throughout its history, most notably through its connection to Charles Dickens, who reportedly stayed at the inn and wrote portions of his ‘Pickwick Papers’ during his visit. The building’s atmospheric character and historical depth have continued to inspire writers, including Eden Phillpotts, whose 1911 novel ‘The Beacon’ was entirely set around The Oxenham Arms and South Zeal.

The inn’s cultural significance extends to its role in inspiring the creation of Westward Ho!, England’s only place name containing an exclamation mark. Charles Kingsley’s 1855 novel ‘Westward Ho!’ featured Captain John Oxenham prominently in its opening chapter, leading to the development of the Devon seaside resort that bears the book’s name. This literary connection demonstrates how The Oxenham Arms’ historical associations have influenced broader cultural developments.

The building’s guest book reads like a who’s who of British cultural and political figures. Admiral Lord Nelson, Sir Francis Drake, The Reverend Sabine Baring-Gould (composer of ‘Onward Christian Soldiers’), Prince Charles, The Rolling Stones, and David Bowie have all stayed within these ancient walls, adding contemporary significance to its historical legacy.

The Major á Beckett Era: Eccentric Genius and Global Recognition

The inn’s most colorful period began in 1929 when Major Patrick Albert Forbes-Winslow á Beckett, nephew of Lord Kitchener, acquired the property. The Major’s extraordinary personality and world-renowned matchbox collection transformed The Oxenham Arms into an internationally celebrated destination. His collection of over 30,000 matchbox covers, displayed throughout the inn’s corridors, attracted visitors from around the globe.

Major á Beckett’s restoration philosophy emphasized historical authenticity, stripping away Victorian modifications to reveal the building’s medieval character. His work uncovered architectural features that might otherwise have remained hidden, establishing conservation principles that continue to guide the building’s preservation today.

The Major’s eccentric personality and aristocratic connections brought unprecedented attention to The Oxenham Arms. His decision to “ban” American guests, his charitable fundraising activities, and his diverse career as actor, comedian, and circus ringmaster created legends that persist today. His death in 1941 ended an era but established traditions of hospitality and historical preservation that continue to define the inn’s character.

Modern Recognition and Continuing Legacy

Today’s Oxenham Arms maintains its historical significance while adapting to contemporary hospitality standards. The building’s Grade II* listing recognizes its exceptional architectural and historical importance, while its CAMRA Heritage Inn designation celebrates its role in preserving traditional British pub culture. The AA Rosette awarded to its restaurant acknowledges the continuing excellence that has attracted visitors for over five centuries.

The inn’s unique feature - allowing guests to see and touch the 5,000-year-old South Zeal Menhir Standing Stone within the Snug Bar - creates an unparalleled connection between modern visitors and Neolithic spirituality. This accessibility to prehistoric heritage, combined with the building’s documented medieval, Tudor, and modern history, makes The Oxenham Arms a unique bridge between ancient and contemporary England.

The building’s supernatural residents - the Benedictine monk, The Lady, and Major á Beckett - add another dimension to its historical significance. These spiritual presences connect visitors to the accumulated emotional and spiritual energy of five millennia of human occupation, creating experiences that transcend mere historical tourism.

Archaeological and Architectural Significance

The Oxenham Arms represents one of Britain’s most archaeologically significant hospitality venues, combining prehistoric, medieval, Tudor, and modern architectural elements within a single structure. The building’s evolution demonstrates how successive generations have preserved and adapted ancient spaces for contemporary use while maintaining their essential character.

The incorporation of the Neolithic menhir into successive building phases creates a unique archaeological record of changing spiritual and social practices. From prehistoric worship through medieval Christianity to modern hospitality, the site has maintained its essential function as a place of welcome and shelter across 50 centuries.

The building’s architectural features span virtually every major period of English construction, from the prehistoric stone through medieval granite and oak work to Tudor additions and modern amenities. This layered architectural history provides insights into changing building techniques, social structures, and cultural values across millennia of English development.

The preservation of original architectural elements - exposed beams, stone walls, medieval doorways, and Tudor features - within a functioning modern hotel demonstrates successful heritage conservation principles. The building serves as a model for maintaining historical authenticity while meeting contemporary hospitality standards.

Conclusion: A Living Testament to English History

The Oxenham Arms stands as more than a historic inn; it represents a living testament to the continuity of English culture and the enduring power of places to connect us with our past. From Neolithic spirituality through medieval monasticism to Elizabethan adventure and modern hospitality, this remarkable building has participated in virtually every significant period of English history.

The inn’s continuing operation maintains traditions of hospitality that stretch back over 500 years, while its preservation of prehistoric and medieval elements ensures that future generations can experience direct connections to their cultural heritage. The building serves as a bridge between past and present, offering visitors opportunities to experience the accumulated wisdom and spiritual energy of five millennia of human occupation.

For modern visitors, The Oxenham Arms provides more than accommodation; it offers immersion in the deep history that has shaped English culture. Whether drawn by its ghostly residents, its archaeological significance, its architectural beauty, or simply its reputation for exceptional hospitality, guests become part of an ongoing story that began with Neolithic stone carvers and continues with each new arrival at this extraordinary establishment.