The Cross Keys is reputedly haunted by at least two ghosts linked to its 17th-century heyday. The first is described as a man in old military attire – likely a soldier from the English Civil War. He’s commonly seen or sensed pacing the corridors, as if still on guard duty. Guests have dubbed him the “Roundhead Officer,” and he tends to appear as a fleeting figure in a cloak or simply as heavy bootsteps in the night. The second spirit is said to be a beautiful woman in a flowing dress, rumored to have been Oliver Cromwell’s secret mistress who accompanied him during the 1647 war council here. Her ghost is more elusive; she’s most often reported in one of the upstairs bedrooms (whispering or a sudden floral perfume in the air) and occasionally seen gazing out of a window. Both ghosts are considered friendly – even protective – with no reports of malicious behavior. These hauntings are well-known enough that a local shopkeeper once matter-of-factly informed curious visitors that “the inn is widely accepted to be haunted by a Civil War ghost”. Indeed, the Cross Keys’ spirits are an ingrained part of Saffron Walden’s folklore, adding an extra layer of intrigue to this historic inn.
Known Ghosts:
Three principal spirits: a **Civil War soldier** (often said to be a Cromwellian soldier), **Elizabeth Tollermarche** (believed to be Oliver Cromwell's mistress), and various other phenomena including **Christmas Eve apparitions**
Regular ghost enthusiasts in Saffron Walden know several hotspots at the Cross Keys, with particular activity in Room 6, the upstairs corridors, and dead-end passages. The Cromwellian Soldier: Multiple guests have independently reported waking up at night to the sound of footsteps marching along the upstairs hallway, sometimes accompanied by the clinking of metal (like spur or armor noises). One guest opened his door, thinking it was a late-arriving visitor, only to see a faint outline of a man in a broad hat and possibly a breastplate walking down the unlit corridor – then it faded away. A particularly notable tradition states that every Christmas Eve, between 11pm and midnight, a spectral man is said to run down a dead-end passage where he vanishes completely. One report identifies him as "a Cromwellian soldier," and witnesses describe his footsteps making the ceiling shake. The ghost soldier is also blamed for doors opening on their own; staff close up the bar at night, only to find the next morning that an internal door to the stairs is inexplicably ajar (as if he made his nightly rounds). Elizabeth Tollermarche: The ghostly woman identified through paranormal investigations as Cromwell's mistress is more subtle in her manifestations. A honeymooning couple staying in the alleged "haunted room" (local lore suggests it's the room Cromwell slept in) experienced a strange incident: they awoke to a translucent lady standing at the foot of the bed, looking sad. She then glided toward the window and disappeared. The couple noted her clothing appeared 17th-century. In another instance, a housekeeper cleaning that same room felt a cold presence and heard a soft sigh near her, which she firmly believes was the lady. She has also been "seen" in the sense of a sudden reflection in a mirror that shouldn't be there – one guest glimpsed a woman's figure in the wardrobe mirror behind him, but he was alone. Additional Phenomena: Beyond the main spirits, witnesses report various other supernatural occurrences including crockery and glasses being moved around, the scent of garlic, black shadows, flashing lights, and sightings of what appear to be a cavalier and a monk. Room 6 is consistently identified as the most haunted room in the building.
