Skip to main content
Hero image of The Cross Keys Hotel

The Cross Keys Hotel

Saffron Walden, Essex

Originally 15th–16th century (Elizabethan era), with circa 1580 construction 4-star (boutique inn and brasserie in Grade II* listed building) 10 Rooms 1 Ghost

The Resident Spirits

View All County Ghosts

The Cross Keys is reputedly haunted by at least two ghosts linked to its 17th-century heyday. The first is described as a man in old military attire – likely a soldier from the English Civil War. He’s commonly seen or sensed pacing the corridors, as if still on guard duty. Guests have dubbed him the “Roundhead Officer,” and he tends to appear as a fleeting figure in a cloak or simply as heavy bootsteps in the night. The second spirit is said to be a beautiful woman in a flowing dress, rumored to have been Oliver Cromwell’s secret mistress who accompanied him during the 1647 war council here. Her ghost is more elusive; she’s most often reported in one of the upstairs bedrooms (whispering or a sudden floral perfume in the air) and occasionally seen gazing out of a window. Both ghosts are considered friendly – even protective – with no reports of malicious behavior. These hauntings are well-known enough that a local shopkeeper once matter-of-factly informed curious visitors that “the inn is widely accepted to be haunted by a Civil War ghost”. Indeed, the Cross Keys’ spirits are an ingrained part of Saffron Walden’s folklore, adding an extra layer of intrigue to this historic inn.

Known Ghosts:

Two principal spirits: a **Civil War soldier** (often said to be a Parliamentarian officer) and a **Woman in a long dress** believed to be Oliver Cromwell’s mistress

Regular ghost enthusiasts in Saffron Walden know two hotspots at the Cross Keys: the upstairs corridor and Room 4. The Soldier: Multiple guests have independently reported waking up at night to the sound of footsteps marching along the upstairs hallway, sometimes accompanied by the clinking of metal (like spur or armor noises). One guest opened his door, thinking it was a late-arriving visitor, only to see a faint outline of a man in a broad hat and possibly a breastplate walking down the unlit corridor – then it faded away. The ghost soldier is also blamed for doors opening on their own; staff close up the bar at night, only to find the next morning that an internal door to the stairs is inexplicably ajar (as if he made his nightly rounds). The Lady: The ghostly woman tied to Cromwell is more subtle. A honeymooning couple staying in the alleged “haunted room” (local lore suggests it’s the room Cromwell slept in) experienced a strange incident: they awoke to a translucent lady standing at the foot of the bed, looking sad. She then glided toward the window and disappeared. The couple noted her clothing appeared 17th-century. In another instance, a housekeeper cleaning that same room felt a cold presence and heard a soft sigh near her, which she firmly believes was the lady. She has also been “seen” in the sense of a sudden reflection in a mirror that shouldn’t be there – one guest glimpsed a woman’s figure in the wardrobe mirror behind him, but he was alone. The general consensus is that she’s a gentle soul, perhaps eternally waiting for someone (Cromwell himself?). These richly detailed experiences – repeated in whispers around town – paint a portrait of two ghosts fulfilling their endless duties: one, a soldier patrolling, the other, a lady pining.

Meet Each Spirit

The Civil War Soldier

Residual Haunting 17th century (English Civil War)

Guests and locals have reported sightings of a ghostly soldier at The Cross Keys Hotel, believed to date back to the English Civil War. Descriptions often include a man in period military attire, seen in the hotel's corridors and rooms. Some accounts suggest the soldier is a residual haunting, re-enacting past events without interaction with the living. :contentReference[oaicite:1]{index=1}

Most Active Areas:

Second-floor co... Guest rooms fac... Main staircase +2 more
Read Full Story

Historical Background

Building Age

Originally 15th–16th century (Elizabethan era), with circa 1580 construction

Original Purpose

Coaching inn and tavern (hostelry for travelers and a local alehouse) that has served since Tudor times

Historical Significance

The Cross Keys is a heritage gem in Saffron Walden, occupying a timber-framed building that has stood since the 1500s. Notably, it was used as a base by Oliver Cromwell and the New Model Army in 1647 during the Civil War council held in Saffron Walden. It’s said Cromwell himself lodged here, along with his officers, which ties into its ghost legends. The inn has welcomed countless visitors over centuries – from medieval merchants during the town’s saffron trade boom to Victorian travelers. It’s a Grade II* listed structure for its well-preserved architecture and historic interiors. Many original features (like its fireplaces and cellars) remain. Its longevity and role in events like the Civil War and local civic life (at one point it was a post office and meeting hall) make it one of Saffron Walden’s most historically significant buildings.

Architecture

Tudor/Elizabethan timber-framing with later Georgian alterations. The frontage boasts exposed wood beams, leaded glass windows, and upper-story overhangs typical of a 16th-century inn. Inside, low ceilings and massive oak beams, wattle-and-daub walls, and an old well under glass are visible. Recent refurbishments have introduced modern comforts but kept the original charm (for instance, each room has unique historic structural elements visible). The blend of old oak paneling and contemporary boutique decor gives it a distinctive character that marries past and present.

What Guests Experience

Reported Activity

Beyond full-on sightings, the Cross Keys has a number of recurrent inexplicable happenings. Cold spots are commonly felt on the main staircase and in the first-floor hall – a chill far beyond any draft from old windows. People sitting in the restaurant after hours have heard the faint rustle of a skirt or the soft tread of boots above them when the inn’s rooms were empty. Items don’t usually move, but lights have a habit of turning themselves on in vacant rooms (especially the “haunted” bedroom). A manager doing lock-up rounds has found the light on in Room 4 multiple times despite being sure he turned it off – he eventually started saying “Good night, General” when switching it off, half-jokingly attributing it to the soldier, and claimed the light then stayed off. Some guests have awakened to the sensation of someone gently tugging their bedcovers, only to find no one there. Electronic disturbances also occur – one guest’s smartphone kept activating voice commands in the middle of the night on the dresser, as if triggered by unseen hands. Importantly, the atmosphere of these events is usually reported as eerie but not hostile; many describe a feeling of curiosity or watchfulness from the unseen entities. These subtle signs, accumulating over years, reinforce to staff and guests that the ghosts are indeed active even when not overtly visible.

Most Active Areas

Room 4 (often identified by past guests as the “haunted room”) is considered ground zero for the lady’s activity – it’s often requested by paranormal-inclined visitors. The first-floor corridor connecting the guest rooms is the soldier’s domain; particularly the stretch by the antique grandfather clock, where people frequently feel they’ve walked through an inexplicable cold patch. The main staircase from the lobby to the first floor is another hotspot – both apparitions have been sighted on these stairs, and it’s where the phantom footsteps are loudest. In the pub/restaurant on the ground floor, there’s a small side room with a fireplace (said to be part of the oldest section of the inn) which sometimes gives people the odd feeling they’re being watched – possibly by our soldier from a corner as he surveys the building. Outside the inn, the courtyard and adjacent street are generally quiet for ghost activity, except historically one account of a ghostly horse (though that’s a one-off story). Within the building, sticking to the upper floor and staircase, one significantly increases the chances of experiencing the Cross Keys’ supernatural residents.

Witness Accounts

Many accounts of these ghosts have been relayed second-hand through locals, but a few direct witness stories stand out. A former owner, in a magazine interview, admitted he once saw “a gentleman in old military dress” standing by the upstairs clock as he did a nighttime security check – he blinked and the figure was gone, but said “I know what I saw.” A local shopkeeper told a TripAdvisor user that the ghosts are common knowledge and not to worry as “they’re friendly”. In 2016, a guest wrote on social media about her stay, claiming she smelled an unexplained lavender perfume in her room and felt a slight pressure on the bed as if someone sat there; she later learned others had similar experiences with the lady ghost. During a paranormal evening event at the inn, a participant using dowsing rods had them cross dramatically when he asked if a spirit was present – immediately after, another person’s EMF detector spiked in the empty corridor, much to everyone’s amazement. Perhaps the most charming anecdote: a young child staying with their family reportedly asked their parents at breakfast, “Who was the sad lady who sang me to sleep last night?” – a comment that gave the proprietor chills. While that can’t be verified, it circulates among staff as evidence that even the innocent can perceive the Cross Keys’ spectral inhabitants. All these accounts, whether public or whispered, weave a compelling narrative that the spirits here are not mere imagination.

Paranormal Investigations

The Cross Keys’ ghosts have drawn the interest of various paranormal hobbyists. The inn has been a stop on local ghost tours and several “haunted Essex” documentaries mention it in passing. In 2019, a small UK paranormal YouTube channel filmed an investigation here (with owner permission after hours). Though largely uneventful visually, their video did capture a distinct knocking response when they called out to the soldier and some EVP audio that sounded like a deep voice saying “Aye” (they took this as a possible reply from the Roundhead). The pub has hosted at least one overnight ghost hunt event where guests use Ouija boards and K-II meters; participants reported some light activity (e.g., an Ouija planchette that consistently went to letters “O” and “C” – which they fancifully took to stand for Oliver Cromwell). The Cross Keys also gets coverage in ghost books: it’s listed in **Haunted Inns of Essex** and the **Paranormal Database** notes the Christmas Eve tradition of a ghost sighting here (some say the soldier appears annually between 11 pm and midnight on Christmas Eve). While not as famous as big city hauntings, the Cross Keys enjoys a steady, enduring reputation among investigators as a genuine, if gentle, haunting to experience – a site where history and the afterlife gracefully intersect.

Book Your Stay

Price Range: Mid-range (£90–£150 per night). Rates include a hearty breakfast in the pub’s restaurant. Suites and four-poster bed rooms at the higher end of the range.
Rooms: 10
Spirits: 1 Ghost

📅 Sample dates:2025-06-06 to 2025-06-08 • 2 adults
Dates and guest count can be changed on booking sites

💰 Affiliate Disclosure: We earn a commission from some bookings at no extra cost to you. Learn more

Paranormal Tip: Book rooms room 4 (often identified by past guests as the “haunted room”) is considered ground zero for the lady’s activity – it’s often requested by paranormal-inclined visitors. the first-floor corridor connecting the guest rooms is the soldier’s domain; particularly the stretch by the antique grandfather clock for the best chance of supernatural encounters!

Contact Details

Address:
32 High Street, Saffron Walden, Essex CB10 1AX

Phone: +44 1799 522207

Status: Operating (restaurant, pub & 10-room inn)

Special Packages

Focus is on food and lodging, not ghost tourism specifically. Offers gourmet dining experiences (the brasserie is well-rated) and often has weekend dinner+B&B deals. For example, a "Romantic Escape" package includes a 3-course dinner and prosecco in-room. No official ghost tour package, but staff may share ghost lore if asked. During the town’s summer arts festival, the hotel sometimes bundles event tickets with rooms.

Accessibility

Being a very old building, accessibility is limited. Rooms are upstairs and there is no lift, only a steep staircase (with a rope banister in parts due to the narrowness). Not suitable for wheelchair users to stay, unfortunately. The bar and dining area are on the ground floor, but there is a single step at the entrance and somewhat tight interior spaces. There is no on-site parking (the inn is on the High Street pedestrian area), but public parking is available a short walk away. If mobility is a concern, the staff will assist as much as possible with luggage and finding the easiest routes through the building.

Other Haunted Sites Nearby

Saffron Walden and its vicinity boast several additional haunts. Just up the street (0.1 mi) is the **Sun Inn**, where a ghostly old man is said to sit by the fireplace on cold nights. A mile away lies **Audley End House**, a grand Jacobean mansion with numerous ghosts (including a headless horseman on the grounds and a lady in the chapel) – they even offer ghost tours on select dates. In town, the **King’s Street** area has stories of a phantom carriage that rattles through on certain nights. And a short drive (8 miles) brings you to **Thaxted**, an ancient village where the guildhall and windmill have ghost legends of their own. In fact, Saffron Walden has a dedicated ghost walk (available through the tourist office) that will guide you to spots like the haunted Bridewell (old jail) and the turf maze on the common, which local superstition holds is walked by spirits at midnight. For Cross Keys guests, this means there’s plenty of supernatural exploring to complement a stay in the town’s most haunted inn.

Ready to Meet Our Ghosts?

Book your stay and experience The Civil War Soldier and other supernatural activity firsthand. Many guests report paranormal encounters during their visits.